Delaware's eerie glow and the intrigue of ChesapeakeLindsay
McRory October 9, 1995
(Editor's Note: Lindsay continues to push south with a
couple of his sailing buddies. Once to Norfolk, Virginia, he will head
back to Halifax, Nova Scotia, by plane to collect his young family and
return to Hakuna Matata to begin the voyage November 1.)
It seemed like it wouldn't, but morning did come. By 10 a.m. we were
past Cape May, heading up the Delaware Bay. Delaware Bay is a large
shallow swampy place. There are no towns, no resorts, no anchorages. For
those of us from the West Coast it reminded us of the lower Frazer River
in British Columbia.
While checking the engine room I was surprised to find the fluorescent
lights were on. So I went to turn them off, but they were off. Hmmm. In
fact, they couldn't be on in the first place because they only run off the
generator or shore power. The generator wasn't on and we certainly were
not plugged into a dock. We had happened upon the Salem nuclear power
plant. We couldn't even see the place but it was generating enough stray
electromagnetic interference to excite the gas in the fluorescent tubes.
It was like taking a fluorescent light and placing it in your microwave
oven. Turn on the microwave and voila, light. But we weren't in a
microwave oven ... or were we? No one laughed at this scientific
comparison. One can argue that the big power companies have done years of
research and studies to tell us with a straight face that it is perfectly
safe to live under high-tension electrical transmission lines and beside
power-distribution stations. Reminiscent of the cigarette commercials of
the 1950s that promoted smoking as safe and healthy. Cleans out your
lungs, they said.
Delaware City, Delaware is strategically located on the Delaware side
of the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal, it was the only place for us to pull
in for the night. The Delaware City marina is located a half-mile down a
thin canal. In fact, the canal was not much wider than Hakuna
Matata's length. It was interesting turning the boat around in such a
tight spot, but it was extremely well-protected. No rocking, no rolling,
no wind whistling through the rigging. Perfect. Too tired to party, we
were all in the sack by 9.
It's only a few miles between the dismal brown banks of Delaware Bay
and the head of Chesapeake Bay. The contrast between these two places is
amazing. Large tasteful homes with manicured lawns lined the waterfront.
Straw-covered mud banks gave way to trees and green vegetation.
Chesapeake Bay is a pretty place. One can see the attraction it has for
cruising. We figured you could probably spend six or seven months here
probing the Chesapeake for its secrets. Not us; we blew by it in two days.
We had the wind, we had the weather and we had a schedule. Next time I'm
leaving the schedule at the dock.
The end of this leg was much like the start. Lots of wind and lots of
waves. We surfed into Norfolk Harbor under a reefed main and the number
two jib. After sailing and living aboard for a month, it was time for the
"big cleanup." We brought our storm-tattered sails into the local sail
maker and closed up a few things. It was tough to leave the Hakuna
Matata, but it was time to get the family and prepare for our return
for the next leg. Norfolk to the Bahamas ... no schedule.
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