Duck and runLindsay McRory September 8, 1996
The last three weeks have been marked by a
steady parade of tropical storms and hurricanes. So far all have passed
safety to the north and east of us. The only effect we have noticed is
that the trade winds have died completely. It's like someone turns off a
switch when a hurricane passes. And without the normal 20-knot winds in
the afternoon, the temperature climbs to a uncomfortable 90 degrees. A
fellow cruiser has a way of monitoring these hot days: "If you can smell
yourself by 11 a.m., it's too hot."
I am surprised by the number of boats that are still heading north or
south. About a half-dozen boats a week stop here to catch their breath or
duck out from a storm. Most of these boats have to reach their destination
at a specific time, for a specific reason like delivering a boat to a
charter fleet in the Virgin Islands or heading to a job somewhere in the
Caribbean. It shows that you can travel during hurricane season, but the
passages are longer because the legs are usually from hurricane hole to
hurricane hole without many stops in between.
We would like to do some coastal cruising in the Dominican Republic but
it is strictly forbidden. The only places you can stop are the listed
harbors, where you must check in and check out with the immigration
officials. They say travel is restricted to control drug smuggling but
nobody knows for sure. Too bad, because it is a beautiful coast.
Getting mail in the DR is a treat. Like many places throughout the
Caribbean, most stores, restaurants hotels, and marinas will hold mail for
pick-up. How your mail is addressed can make a huge difference, especially
in Latin American countries. Some boats rely on nautical addresses like:
TO: Captain James T. Kirk Aboard SV Enterprise
But when Captain Kirk goes in and asks for his mail in broken Spanish
it will most likely be filed under the name Captain Enterprise. I saw this
happen at the hotel in Nassau. Keeping it simple will usually yield better
results. I find the nautical addressing to be a bit on the pretentious
side. Being a documented captain means little outside U.S. waters. You can
get a DR captain's license for 600 pesos, no test or qualifications. So to
get your mail, use just your name and save the captain stuff for the yacht
club cocktail parties.
We had our first accident in over a year on the boat. Kita was playing
around and took a head-first winger into the cockpit. She ended up with a
rather large hole in her head. Denise controlled the bleeding while we
lowered her to the dinghy. We radioed to have a car pick us up at the
marina. Our driver covered the road to Puerto Plata--normally 90
minutes--in just 50 minutes. Kita ended up with eight internal stitches
and three fancy ones on the outside. The clinic was very good. She was out
in an hour. If this had happened far from medical facilities, we probably
could have dealt with it ourselves but I think she would have had a pretty
good scar from it.
In general our days are filled with boat chores,
schooling, and computer work. We try to take a break in the afternoon and
hit a beach or go to the marina. The boat looting has stopped, although
everyone still keeps a eye out for the thieves.
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