Crimes and dinghiesLindsay McRory August 13, 1996
Things roll along in Luperon, but life is never
uneventful. Crime is normally unheard of in these parts, but three boats
have been robbed in the last week. It seems the burglars hide along the
edges of the mangroves and watch the boats. When they see someone leaving
their boat, they swim out and take what they want. Typically money and
cameras. Then they put the booty in floating baskets and swim back into
the mangroves and disappear.
After the first two times it seemed the local officials cared little
about it. Then the cruisers started getting paranoid that the local
officials were involved. Last night the crew aboard Dream Walker
dingyed back to their boat to witness a "guest" jumping off their boat and
heading for the mangroves. The skipper quickly radioed every boat on the
harbor and in minutes there were a dozen dinghys scouring the mangroves
with flashlights. The police and the comandancia were called and came out
in boats. We never found anyone, but that night police put up road blocks
and arrested 20 people for various minor infractions and questioned them
about the recent robberies as well. Today, four more people were arrested
in the morning and another in the afternoon. It seams there are only so
many bad actors in this small community so when something happens they
just put all of them in jail. Odds are if one of them didn't do it, they
know who did.
The Dominican Republic is a poor country. They do not have the money to
feed convicted or suspected criminals three square meals a day. So they
don't. It's up to friends and family to feed the incarcerated. Because so
many innocent people get put in jail, a crime in a small community is a
crime against the community. They don't passively watch crime occur or
pretend they didn't see it as with some of the big cities in North
America. The guilty are ferreted out quickly, without intensive police
investigations. Punishment is harsh. O.J. Simpson would of started 20 hard
years of imprisonment a week after the murders.
The trade winds blow strong, kicking up a good chop in the harbor. One
of the major inconveniences of anchoring is the dingy rides back and
forth, which can be incredibly wet, especially in a small dingy. Our
two-year-old, nine-foot Zodiac is too small for the task. Every ride was
like going for a swim. Size wasn't the Zodiac's only problem. Since the
Bahamas it has literally melted before our eyes. Seams have popped, the
outer skin has been rapidly delaminating. It seems to be common knowledge
among veteran Caribbean cruisers that Zodiac makes the worst dingy for the
tropics. Apparently if left in colder climes they can serve there purpose
well for years. But get them in the hot Caribbean sun and they melt like
ice cream, and nearly that fast. Statistically, since leaving Florida, we
have not seen a single other Zodiac. We were fortunate to run into another
sailboat coming from Trinidad, heading for Florida, in need of cash, who
wanted to sell there 13-foot rigid-bottom dingy. It's an older AB, made in
Venezuela. We bought it. It's huge, ugly, and cheap. But an ugly dingy has
less of a chance of getting stolen, so it's perfect. We call it the school
bus. It is a monster. We had five adults, two kids, and 200 pounds of
supplies and there was still room left over.
The Zodiac is ready for the dumpster. It won't be the first zodiac
buried in a foreign port. We are considering various ritualistic
sacrifices involving machetes and flare guns and maybe a little rum. I may
call Zodiac first. It's out of warranty so I won't hold my breath. Given
the amount of time I've spent patching it up in the last four months I
would feel a lot better just cutting it to ribbons.
We had a good dinner in a small outdoor restaurant. Our entertainment
was provided by a pack of geckos eating flies and no-see-ums on the side
of the walls. This seem perfectly natural here and the geckos were doing
us a favor. But then we though if we were having dinner in New York we
wouldn't be so inclined to share eating space with lizards. We may even
catch a gecko or two and give them run of the boat.
My favorite boat of all time pulled into Luperon for a couple of days,
Steve and Linda Dashew's Sundeer. This is the original aluminum
prototype boat for the Sundeer series, built in New Zealand. I like
everything about the boat. If we had a million dollars to spend on a boat,
it would be a toss-up between the Sundeer 64 and a Privilege 42. No tears.
It's far better to go with what you have and can afford rather than
waiting to make a million dollars to spend on a boat.
|